Saturday
The northern swell was not enormous, but it rolled down the bay and ricocheted off the cliffs leaving Leona less than perfectly settled. The proposed second snorkel did not call us, so we opted for a hike along the Cape Brett Track, a roughly 10 mile trail out to the Lighthouse. Given our particular time constraints, an 11-hour there and back tramp did not seem feasible, but we figured we could at least see a bit of it..
Securing Joker on the beach required her anchor, a line wrapped around a driftwood stump, and a prayer to Tangaroa that the incoming tide would not play havoc with our little dingy. This form of anchoxiety does not require a multi-houred wait, just a lot of running around.
Cultural tidbit:
Tramping in New Zealand is the equivalent to hiking or trekking: “often rough, frequently wet, but regularly inspiring.” AA Traveller website.
Tangaroa is the Maori god of the sea.
The first of many attempts to secure Joker
The trail led us up the cliff from the beach, past a grassy parking lot lined with wild agapanthus (sadly listed as an invasive weed), and into the forested ridge above.
Kauri are tall coniferous trees found in the Northland. In the past its wood was highly prized for masts and ship building, but over-logging and climate change has taken a toll. Now recognized as one of the world’s best carbon sinks, protecting the forests from kauri die-back has become a priority. As we entered the forest, we had to go through a sanitizing station, with brushes to clean the mud off our shoes and a disinfectant to spray over the soles.
Tramping is a great descriptor. We marched along the muddy, root laced track, mostly uphill, needing to take care as we placed our feet. A slip or a trip would have been both uncomfortable and unsightly, given the sticky mud left from the overnight downpour. We tramp our way through the trees and ferns and passion-fruit vines, serenaded by the constant chirp and clack of chorus cicadas. Periodically you catch a glimpse of the brilliant blue bay below, gradually sinking further and further away as we climb.
At last we reach the watering station and vista point…worth every drop of sweat and knee pang. And then we turn around and make our way down once more, David racing ahead. Joker is calling to him.
As we prepped to up anchor and head back to the marina, a trio of bottlenose dolphins swam slow laps around Leona, diving and rolling and chuffing. I swear they responded to our high pitched squeaks of joy. Dolphin watching never gets old.
OK, I squeaked. David employed a very serious dolphin calling technique.
Our cruise back to Opua was uneventful: another perfect day of nice breeze, sunshine, and calm seas. We wove way among the islands and rocks, sailboats and motor boats, around a large cruise ship anchored outside Russell, waited for the car ferries to cross in front of us (you don’t want to play chicken with them) before pulling back into the marina.
We had two goals: laundry and dinner. Luckily you can do both at the same time, given the laundromat is next door to a nice little eatery serving Thai food and Eton Mess. I give the food solid marks, but the entertainment was…unique. David’s seat happened to face a large screen displaying David Attenborough films set to a sound track of old pop songs. Nothing like watching orcas and polar bears hunting to stimulate the appetite.
Service was great.